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When we describe a city as having “style,” we are usually
thinking in terms of its unique characteristics, the subtle
specialties that set it apart and a particular charm that shines
amongst the others. For some reason this definition is commonly
reserved for the likes of Paris, London or New York, hardly beach
cities in Mexico. Well, I think it’s time to broaden the scope
because Puerto Vallarta definitely has style, and lots of it.
The basic facts are undeniable. This is Mexico’s most popular Pacific
Coast destination complete with crystal blue water, picture
perfect sunsets, fabulous beaches and stunning world-class
resorts. Keeping this in mind I, like most first-timers to
Vallarta (as the locals call it), was only looking as far as a
great tan and some margaritas. However, from the moment I glanced
out the window as the plane approached the airport, I had a
different perspective of what a Mexican resort town should be. And
I would soon discover that it’s what lies beneath the surface
here that makes Puerto Vallarta truly extraordinary.
The overall lay of the land flying into Puerto Vallarta is the first
surprise. From the air it’s possible to get a sweeping view and
a sense of the magnitude of the natural environment that is such
an intricate part of Vallarta’s history, culture and
development. The lush tropical jungle landscape of the towering
Sierra Madre Mountains as they roll to the shores of the colossal
Bahia de Banderas (Banderas Bay) is breathtaking. Seeing all this
comprehensively from above, it is also easy to understand how some
of Vallarta’s most impressive beaches are only accessible by
boat. Gazing down I was so taken by the visual beauty of the
scenery that I had to refocus to find the hotels. And there they
were, lining the seaside in all shapes and sizes just waiting for
their guests to arrive.
The airport is here is small, but the warm welcome will more than
compensate for any lack of modernization. Usually the hotels send
representatives to help you find your way, but the taxi drivers
are equally helpful. The choices of lodging in Puerto Vallarta are
virtually limitless. Whether it is a high rise on the beach, a big
name favorite at the Marina Vallarta, a hillside villa, an
all-inclusive at Nuevo Vallarta (New Vallarta) or a quaint Bed and
Breakfast in Viejo Vallarta (Old Vallarta), you will find the
kindness of the people overwhelming. When they began to explain
all the things to do and see in Vallarta, I saw their faces
brighten, I heard pride in their voices and I could actually feel
the love they have for their city. All of a sudden sitting on the
beach or by the pool at my hotel sipping my margarita held less
appeal. Sure it’s
always a great idea on a Mexican vacation, but understanding the
real magic of Puerto Vallarta and experiencing what it has to
offer sounded like a much more enticing plan.
My first stop was the downtown area known as Viejo
Vallarta. Much the
same as it has been for hundreds of years, this bustling area is
the focal point of the local culture, cuisine and nightlife. The
Huichol Indians (indigenous to the area) still sell their wares in
the colorful marketplaces and keep the spirit of the past alive.
Mariachi music fills the ocean air and there is a deep sense of
tradition. Cobblestone
streets and white washed buildings with red tile roofs are
punctuated with bougainvillea and flower covered balconies.
Romance and charm are everywhere. Marvelous art galleries and
eclectic shops add to the mix and give Vallarta its own
distinctive cultural flair. I
finally concluded this must be the San Francisco of Mexico!
As I explored the city, I picked up as many brochures
as I could find only to discover that it would take many more
visits to Vallarta to even scratch the surface of the activities
here. The geographic diversity of the region makes ecology here a
key concern. In addition to the standard deep-sea fishing and
scuba diving possibilities, I was intrigued by the idea of other
not-so-obvious local adventures. The options are incredible from
swimming with dolphins, hiking to a secluded jungle waterfall and
mountain bike riding near tree-lined rivers to exotic birdwatching,
observing nesting sea turtles*, and the wondrous experience of
seeing hundreds of humpback whales as they make their winter home
in Banderas Bay. From my perspective, Puerto Vallarta comes very
close to being all things to all visitors.
Thrilled by what I learned about my new favorite
beach destination, I decided to have that margarita and
contemplate my return trip. I took a stroll along the Malecon (the
seaside walk) and found one of Vallarta’s many incredible
restaurants and bars with an ideal view of the ocean. There is
something inherently special about a Mexican sunset. Maybe it’s
the brilliant contrast of the sand and the sea as the orange and
yellow hue slip into the horizon. Maybe it’s just the sensation
of complete relaxation. Either way, I will never get tired of the
perfect end to a perfect day in a paradise like this. A sunset on
the pacific coast of Mexico is without question one of life’s
true pleasures. In fact, as it turns out, Puerto Vallarta is one
of life’s true pleasures too.
*
June through December are Sea Turtle Preservation Months.
“Turtle Liberation” ceremonies take place where guests from
participating hotels help release newborn turtles into the
ocean.
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